Island Peak ( 6,160m/20,205ft )
Island peakÂ (6160 m) is one of the most beautiful peak of Everest regions in Sagarmatha National Park. This is one of the major destinations of the trekkers who like to have adventure trip. Eric Shipton’s party of 1952 named the mountain Island Peak. In 1983 it was renamed Imja Tse, but it is more familiar with its name Island Peak. It is located just above near east to the typical sherpa village dingboche and Chhukung. There are two alternative ways to get to Base camp, one starts via Jiri after 8 hours bus driving then trek crossing the several up and down trekking trail through lukla and another one start from Lukla by flight then trek to base camp. The groups have to follow the trail which goes to Everest Base camp. The caravan route to island peak base camp is Lukla- Namche- Tyanboche- Dingboche chhukung. The Island peak base camp is nearby Island glacier at the altitude of 5200 m. Form where, we climb steep upward to high camp (5500 m). It takes around three hours. From there crossing rocky and glacier route we will reach to the summit of the peak.
When, we step on the top of this island peak we can observe an incredible view of the great Himalayan range which includes world’s most popular mountain’s of Sagarmatha National Park the Khumbu such of Makalu (8,475m), Lhotse (8,501m), Lhotse Middle Peak (8,410m), Lhotse Shar (8,383m), Nuptse (7,879m), Ama Dablam (6812 m) and many other small snowcapped peaks.
Island Peak Expedition from the South East Flank & South-West Ridge
Normally, the base camp is set at Pareshaya Gyab (5,087m), between Imja Tse and the lateral moraine of the Imja Glacier. It should not be forgotten that the place is more likely for avalanche in the event of heavy snow fall. From the base camp, a well acclimatized party in good conditions can make the summit and return to the base camp in a day. However, most of the climbers prefer establisheing a High-Camp which helps a safe ascent. From the base camp the route skirts south east around and base of Imja Tse and climbs steep grassy slopes and small rocky steps. We scramble up on open gully which leads between two ridges to the site of high camp on the left-hand ridge below and to the right of a small hanging glacier (5,280m). From the high camp, the left hand ridge scramble across the broad open gully. After crossing a gully a steep snow and ice ramp leads upward for nearly 100 meters to the summit ridge. Climbing near the summit is a little difficult due to steep climbing. In recent times the snow slopes below the summit has developed some large crevasses making the final ascent to the top difficult.
Island Peak Climb from the North Ridge Route
First ascent was in 1958 by Alf Gregory, Dick Cook and two Sherpas. North of the main summit the ridge continues to a col (5,700m). The route climbs the ridge from the col, which is reached by following the true right bank of the Imja Glacier and later the moraines on the right bank of the Lhotse Sar Glacier, before climbing north-west over snowy slopes to the col. On the first ascent, a camp was placed on the col. From the col, follow the ridge which is a magnificient snow arete, due south. This steepens for the final summit pyramid. This a long ridge that would be difficult under soft snow conditions and may under other contiditions have a marked cornice. The climb is a little more difficult than the normal route, and is graded alpine PD+.
Trekking: Island Peak
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